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An update for Jan 2010
Well it's been some time since I have written on this blog but make sure you check out my twitters on MENSSTYLE for more frequent updates.
2009 was a tough year for obvious reasons but I am delighted that the majority of my client's have managed to get through the year relatively unscathed. Despite the tough economic conditions M&BT continued to invest in the product and services that we deliver. Notable areas include:
1. Launch of Made-to measure golf trousers that are now stocked in Brocket Hall Golf Club in Hertfordshire
2. The continued development of our premium suit collection 'The Ambassador Range' which now accounts for 100% of our business.
3. The Franchise planning phase has been completed and we will be looking to go live during 2010 provided the economic conditions are right.
4. Our corporate shows have proved very successful with our clients including KPMG and Barclays Capital.
5. The launch of the M&BT Buddy reward program has been great fun and proved a really hit with our loyal customers.
But things will not stop their. In January 2010 we have launched www.asuit2fit.com our online only order site. This site enables existing and new clients to take more control over the cost of their suit therefore saving money. |
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A response to an article in the Londonist.com about Savile Row - Nov 7th 2009
I think that Savile Row Tailors need to spend more time focussing on their own product rather than worrying about other people's. The client who spends £3k on a bespoke suit is very different to the person who wants to spend £500. I struggle to see how one can 'steal' from the other where the consumer is completely different. If anything, the growth of 'made-to-measure tailors at affordable prices' is increasing awareness of fitted garments in a way that is growing the category as a whole rather than stealing share. As these new clients progress up the financial ladder the chances are some will want to spend more money for 'better quality' and buy from Savile Row.
I say this from experience. I own a made-to-measure suit business that works in London and most certainly do not see my consumer as being the same as Savile Row. What I do see every day is a lot of young business men walking into work looking better, feeling more confident and ultimately being more successful because they have access to a tailoring experience that 15 years ago would have been out of reach for all but a few people.....surely this can't this be a bad thing?!
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Made-to-measure Golf Trousers for sale at Brocket Hall Golf Club
Well it has taken some time but the made-to-measure golf collection is now available at Brocket Hall Golf Club, Hertfordshire. There are over 100 fabrics to choose from as well as 30 different colour trims. I am not going to give too much away on here as a number of people have already started to copy the idea....well as long as I lead the way I don't mind too much.
Well I am off on a 2 day golfing weekend with some friends today so will be putting the new range through it's paces on a tough links course on the south coast!
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10th October - So what does the Super 100's really mean?
Do you know your Super 100's from your Super 150's?
If you take a look in one of your suit jackets you may notice that it has a Super grading on the label, for example Super 100's or Super 110's. Understanding this fabric labelling could mean the difference between buying a suit that lasts one year to buying a suit that lasts four years!
The International Wool Textile Organisation has coded fabric quality using the Super "X" description to ensure that people can make informed decisions when making purchases. The "Super" coding can only be used to describe fabrics made from pure new wool. In some cases this wool may be mixed with other rarer fabrics such as Mohair and Cashmere as well as up to 5% of non-wool yarn.
The "X" value is then determined by, and must comply with, the Maximum Fibre Diameter (MFD). For example a Super 100's MFD is 18.75µ compared to a Super 150's MFD of 16.25µ.
"Understanding this fabric labelling could mean the difference between buying a suit that lasts one year to buying a suit that lasts four years!"
So what does this mean? Well, the higher the Super Grade the finer the cloth making it feel more luxurious and typically more expensive! A Super 150's is gorgeous to the touch and has an unmistakably silky look, but it also has its fall backs. The finer the fabric, the less durable it becomes, so unless you wish to part with significant amounts of money on a regular basis, my advice would be to drop down a few grades!
I would typical recommend a Super 100's cloth from one of the established merchants such as Scabal, Holland & Sherry, and Dormeuil. For a slightly cheaper option you can try Dugdale Brothers or Lear Browne & Dunsfield. If after reading this article you are still tempted to push the quality boundaries then consider this….
A few months ago I had a breakfast meeting with the Global Sales Director of Holland & Sherry in the Savile Row office. After the meeting she showed me a beautiful binder that once opened revealed a single swatch of fabric and a hard back book. The book described the actual animal from which the cloth had been spun, a Vicuna. Holland & Sherry had made enough fabric to make 18 signature Vicuna suits at a cost of £40,000 each!
Next month:
What makes a suit fit well?
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12th October 2009 - Copy for Brocket Hall PR in PURE Magzine
Made-to-measure golf trousers add a touch of style to Brocket Hall golfers…
Mathieson & Brooke Tailors Ltd will be launching their new range of made-to-measure golf trousers in October 2009. This exciting collection has been designed by golfers for golfers, and is made to the same high standards that M&BT customers have become accustomed to.
"Our clients have been asking for a range of golf trousers for a number of years but we wanted to make sure that we could offer something that not only revolutionised the style and cut but also offered practical solutions as well" explained David Brooke, Director of M&BT. "We worked with a number of golfers, including a member of the English youth team, to perfect the tailoring block before working with Brocket Hall to finalise design".
"3,000 different design combinations"
The M&BT made-to-measure golf trouser has reinforced pockets that will last considerably longer than the standard construction. The double belt loops not only provide a unique style but also provide better support when worn with a belt. The two hip pockets are also designed with the golf in mind, one has a secure zip fastening to secure items such as tees and markers whilst the second is open for the score card. The vented cuff (every pair of trousers has a 1inch slit known as a vent on the bottom of the trouser) always sits better on the shoe and you now have a choice of over 30 different colours to make sure that your trousers are truly individual.
"reinforced pockets for extra strength"
Getting fitted for your trousers is simple:
STEP 1: Visit Brocket Hall Golf Club where you can view over 100 different fabric swatches as well as over 30 different vent trims, enabling over 3,000 different design combinations!
STEP 2: Once you have chosen your fabric and vent colour you can try on a pair of fitting trousers enabling you to get the perfect fit for your type of game. If the trousers are a little too long or too short you can record the desired length on the easy to use order form to ensure that the tailor can produce the perfect fit.
STEP 3: Fill in the delivery address details and pay for your made-to-measure trousers in the shop. Prices start at just £150.
Your trousers will be delivered just five weeks later directly to your home. Should you wish any adjustments to be made then simply contact M&BT who will arrange for the collection and adjustments to be made free of charge.
As with all Mathieson & Brooke made-to-measure garments, once you have ordered your first pair you can order again and again with the confidence that the product will fit perfectly every time.
For more information either contact Brocket Hall Golf Club on 01707 394994 or David Brooke (M&BT) on 07962 141932.
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17th September - The City Collection - Made-to-measure Shirts
Announcing the latest collection from M&BT. The City Collection of shirts takes some of the finest Italian fabrics and combines them with very tradition, city styles. Stripes and White collars and cuffs are key as is the double cuff and Windsor collar. For more information contact M&BT on 07962 141932.
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16th September - Made-to-measure Morning Suit with Floral Shirt
I did a weddng show this week and used the floral made-to-measure shirt (using the Liberty's fabric) with our made-to-measure morning suit. The effect was striking and it got loads of comments. If people would like to find out more just drop me a line.
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11th September - Barclays Capital Show
I had a great 2 days at Barclays capital this week. We had a great show set up that allowed people to come and discuss made-to-measure tailoring, many for the first time. We also had a putting green which was a great laugh and was used to launch a made-to-measure golf trousers.
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9th September - BBC Sports Presenters CoursePresented as part of the BBC Sports Presenter course today. I really enjoy doing these gigs as it gives me the opportunity to get a first hand look at how new fabrics will appear on television. A good day. The made-to-measure suit section went down very well.
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25th August 2009 - Worstead Herringbone 3 PieceThe blue herringbone fabric is perfect for a made-to-measure suit that is to be worn in a variety of envirnoments. It's perfect for the office or a wedding, the trousers may even be worn casually. The following suit has been made using this traditional fabric but has a very contemporary style. Peak lapels and exagerated angled pockets are just a few of the styles that have been prominent over the last few years. The purple melton and cuffs are subtle yet add to the personalisation. |
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24th August 2009 - New Collection of Made-to-measure Golf TrousersWe received the new collection of made-to-measure golf trousers today. The fabric is a synthetic mix linin lookalike which I have used for many years to make hard wearing and durable suits (although not in these colours!). The trousers boast reinforced pockets, double belt loops, frog mouth hip pockets and zip rear pockets.
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3rd August - White Linin Wedding Suit Hi David,
Thanks for the suit. It looked excellent. I believe I was the best dressed guy in the place. One lady at the hotel we were staying asked if I was the one getting married (lol).
Anyway, please find attached a picture of myself in the suit with my sister.
Thanks again
Nigel
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26th July 2009 - Liberty floral print made-to-measure shirtIt has taken a little while but here is a quick shot of the Liberty print shirt. The real mother of perarl buttons are stitched in a contrast stitching that picks up on the turquoise flower. The slightly oversized double button collar ensures the shirt has a contemporary look and is matched by a double button cuff.
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June 1st 2009 - Bespoke Tweed Casual JacketA great design for a smart casual jacket. Ideal with jeans or smart trs. The fabrics is a lightweight check (9oz) with a dark blue over check. The cuff button holes are in dark blue, and there are 5 buttons kissing. The black suede pocket corners and collar funky the jacket up and draw out the black check in the tweed. The double button hole on the left lapel also adds to the bespoke nature of this jacket.
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15th May 2009 - Funky Double Breasted Bespoke Suit by M&BTWhat a fantastic example of how you can take a classic bespoke suit and make it funky. This bespoke suit belongs to Chris, one of our longest standing customers. Chris kindly let me keep the suit for an additional day so that I could photograph it for the blog. The bespoke suit has matching bespoke trousers that also have a pink trim inside the pocket as well as 1 inch vents on the cuff. |
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12th May 2009 - Blue Birdseye, High 1button with Blue button holeA beautiful blue birdseye 12oz English wool. A great weight which gives the jacket a stunning drape. A striking blue button hole makes this jacket just slightly different from the norm. Higher breast button hole adds to the contemporary style
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30th April 2009Have just returned some suits to a very good client of mine who loves to design unique features to his suits. Here is an example of his unique 3 button crown hip pocket....I won't make this for any other clients but I love the detail!
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27th April 2009 - Bespoke Shirt, Retail price £150A fantastic shirt from our Ambassador Collection. Perfect for people who have long necks like me! From our Summer Collection of bespoke shirt fabric. Blue and pink, uneven herringbone weave. 3 button collar with chunky 4mm mother of pearl buttons stitched in pink thread. 3 buttons on cuff also in mother of pearl with pink stitching. Pink 3mm gingham trim on collar and cuffs. London collar with removable mother of pearl stiffeners. Darts on back with split yoke. |
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22nd April 2009A very busy day in London today. It started with breakfast in the City witha very good friend of mine Andy Roseman who owns Dombey Bespoke Tailors in Aldgate. He has just started to stock M&BT made-to-measure so we were just finalising the details. This is great for those clients who are unable to meet in their office or who are travelling in from outside London. This is a great opportunity for us to showcase our designs in a retail environment.
After this I visited six clients for fittings before meeting a company that make bespoke suits here in England. The quality was outstanding and the amount of handstitching used was very impressive. These tailors will be making the M&BT English Bespoke range starting from £1295 to be launched later in the year.
So all in all a fantastically busy day, only slightly tainted by a fairly dismal budget speech.
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April 20th: NEW lightweight bespoke cashmere overcoat with storm collar.The latest client bespoke overcoat from Mathieson & Brooke Tailors Ltd uses a lightweight dark blue cashmere. The weight gives the cashmere a sheen that looks fantastic in the sunlight. The weight also means that this bespoke coat can be worn all year round.
The storm collar fastens but can also be worn as a normal collar. Angled pockets and 3 working button cuffs. The last cuff button hole is sewn in a royal blue thread to match the lining of the jacket.
These overcoats start at £450 depending on the fabric that you choose. Higher grade cashmere can cost as much as £350 per meter. |
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April 12th 2009: Dormeuil Ice - Wool, Cashmere, Mohair in green and greyJust got the first suit back in the Dormeuil Ice fabric. The finish is absolutely exquisite as you can see from the photo. This suit is a 2 button (slightly higher positioning), 3 piece single breasted. There are 5 kissing (working) buttons and slightly narrower lapels to create a more contemporary image.
You can see more of this fabric range in our interactive swatch book Click Here |
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2nd March 2009 - LATEST TRENDSIt has often occurred to me that there are not many resources on the web for men to research the latest styles. There is obviously GQ www.gqmagazine.co.uk that has a fantastic men's style section but many of these are too contemporary for the London office. I will therefore make a concerted effort to place more men's style trends on to this blog.
NARROW LAPELS: This continues to be a very popular style. We typically take between 1 and 1.5cm of the lapel width to give the bespoke suit an overall contemporary look. Some designers are taking even more off which for many people would make the suit look too much of a fashion item.
HIGHER FRONT BUTTONS: I love this look and it's amazing how raising the buttons can change the look of the tailor-made suit completely. On the fuller figure it can also make the jacket far look far more shapely.
EXAGERATED ANGLED POCKETS: This style is only appropriate in some environments but continues to be a very popular option.
More to come!
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2nd Feb 2009 - Amanda Christensen show case new collectionThose of you who have already purchased an Amanda Christensen tie will understand why I rave about them so much. Well here is some great news....they are now even better. The new collection is launched in March 2009 and includes a number of new styles including the the Orange Collection, Paisley and a Regimental stripe with a twist (See picture).
But that's not all! They have also re-souced their silk and improved on the construction to produce a tie that is comparable with some of the finest in the world. My particular favourite is the Orange collection.
The new range will all be available in our online shop from the 1st March so keep a look out!
CLICK HERE TO GO TO AMANDA CHRISTENSEN'S NEW RANGE |
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14th January 2009I had a great chat with someone today who contacted me through the website. They had been looking to buy a number of Amanda Christensen ties and couldn't find anywhere to buy them until they came across our website! It is great to speak to people who really appreciate quality and this gentleman couldn't speak more highly about Amanda's ties. The new range is being launched shortly and I am working closely with Amanda Christensen to ensure that we can make the available to you as soon as possible. Watch this space!
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5th January 2009We finished one of our boldest bespoke Dinner Jackets yet this week. A very good client of ours asked for the bespoke Dinner Jacket with newspaper print lining complimented by a bespoke shirt with the matching newspaper print on the back. Check out the photos of the finished garment. We sourced the lining from Japan after much searching. |
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1st Jan 2009 - Happy New YearA Happy New Year to all our customers we hope that you all had a fantastic festive break. M&BT have launched their Bespoke Suit Sale this week with fantastic savings to be had on a wide range of bespoke suits. For example, buy 2 bespoke suits from our Ambassador 5 Range with 2 extra trousers and receive a FREE bespoke Sports Jacket!
To find out more just drop us a line on 07962 141932. |
| 29th Nov 2008 - The new M&BT Sock Collection....Awsome!!! |  |
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 23rd Nov 2008I am so happy with the recent factory visit that I had at a sock factory in Leicestershire. At last I have found a company that shares our passion for taking an everyday product and adding an innovative flare. These guys are brilliant and I am delighted to say that we will be selling a hand picked selection of their socks on M&BT-Theshop!
To see the range click here Sock Range
Not only can you now buy a bespoke suit from your favourite London bespoke tailor but you can also now by cufflinks, a tie and socks to match!!!!! |
20th Nov 2008A big thank you to all our bespoke suit customers as our financial year closed with the best month of the year. This reallly is fantastic and it is a credit to all those clients who have recommended me to their friends and colleagues.
I am a true believer in networking and attend a weekly business networking group in Hertfordshire as well as present at a number of business forums. In tough times like this I believe it is critical that we do 2 things. The first is that we give our existing customers the best possible service, you are our life blood and the people who have contributed to the way that we have evolved. The second is networking, having been trained up to the eyeballs in sales and negotiation skills in a previous career, networking was something new to me. However, there is nothing more powerful than selling you business in person to someone who in turn then sells your business to their friends and colleagues. Having attended 2 netorking events this week I am truelly buzzing with new ideas and new contacts! |
 18th Nov 2008Thank you to all of those people who turned up to the Best of Hitchin networking event this evening. I hope that my short presentation about 'Dressed for Business' was useful. There must have been about 100 businesses represented and it was a fantastic opportunity to promote local businesses.
I received some great feedback especially from the women who were requesting that we started to make ladies bespoke suits immediately! Well, it looks like the request may have accelerated our business plan to a new Year Launch. |
12th Nov 2008Reveived the latest bunches from Dormeuil today....thanks Chris! Some of these fabrics are absolutely amazing and perfect for bespoke suits and bespoke jackets. The new bunches include the Amadeus (Classic Super 100s), The new Ice Range, and the Voyager which are designed exclusively for people who travel and require a noncrease bespoke suit. I will try to get some of the swatches on line asap so that you can see them for yourself.
I couldn't signoff without saying well done to the Arsenal youth team that just put on a sublime performance against Wigan in the Carling Cup tonight.....!!!! |
10th Nov 2008
Received a great mail today from one of my customers who picked up a Holland & Sherry Needle Cord Bespoke jacket last week.
"Hi David, looks like thf irst outing of new cord jacket has resulted in a new customer for you. Keep a look out for Hugo ********! Cheers, Richard"
To find out more about a Holland & Sherry Range for bespoke jackets and bespoke suits just drop me a call and I can give you a heads up.
I have also almost agreed the range of M&BT socks from an English mill. I have been looking for a really funky range of bright socks for sometime but it is almost impossible to find any. This range will be something really special and we can't wait to get them on the website tos how you!
Remember, if you are interested in a bespoke suit or a bespoke shirt simply drop me a line and I will be more than happy to discuss your requirements.
David Brooke |
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